Famil in the Red Centre – Part 2: Immersion in the Splendor of Kings Canyon

September 4, 2024
By Patrick Cros

Kings Canyon Resort deserves a two-night stay to enjoy activities like Light Towers at sunrise or sunset, walks in the canyon, 'Under a Desert Moon' dinner under the stars and the Karrke Aboriginal tour. After a good night's sleep, we're ready to explore this magnificent landscape and to experience what it offers!

A faint red glow slowly begins to appear on the horizon as we meet Mark at 6:30 AM, a guide from Kings Canyon Resort, waiting for us with his coach in front of the reception for our Rim Walk through the canyon. In this early spring, the temperature is nice, and we are lulled by the chirping of crickets and a few birds that seem to want to celebrate the beginning of a new day. After a few minutes of driving, we arrive at the base of the rocky massif. The light is still dim, but the peaks are beginning to blaze with the first rays of the sun.

Equipped with good shoes, water bottles, and sunscreen in our backpacks, we are ready for a breathtaking journey through one of the Outback’s most stunning landscapes. 'Spanning approximately 6 kilometres, the loop takes about 3 to 4 hours to complete, depending on your pace and the time spent admiring the views,' Mark explains. The walk begins with a 'challenging' ascent, a steep climb of a few hundred meters up a series of stone steps. The landscape around us gradually transforms as the sun plays beautifully with the rock and the rugged hills surrounding us.

A bit breathless but amazed by this natural spectacle, we are rewarded at the top with panoramic views over the canyon’s sheer red cliffs and the vast desert beyond.

The trail then winds along the rim of Kings Canyon, offering us a series of spectacular viewpoints, including the famous Cotterill’s Lookout. Here, the sheer vertical walls of the canyon plunge down to Kings Creek far below, a spectacular drop of over 100 meters. The path continues through a landscape dotted with weathered sandstone domes known as the 'Lost City,' resembling the ruins of an ancient city. 'This is the result of millions of years of erosion, sculpting the soft rock into unique shapes,' Mark says.

Midway through the hike, we descend into the Garden of Eden, a lush oasis hidden deep within the canyon. As the temperature rises, this tranquil waterhole, surrounded by ancient cycads and prehistoric ferns, provides us with a cool and welcome shaded respite from the heat.

After 4 hours of walk, the parking lot and the resort appear in the distance around the bend in the trail, meaning the end of our hike. The descent is gentle, with images of beautiful landscapes filling our minds. An extraordinary hike suitable for anyone in normal physical condition. 'But you always must be careful during the walk. You can easily slip on rocks, so it is important to always stay on the trail and keep a few meters away from the cliffs,' our guide emphasizes. “The easy alternative walk is the Kings Creek Walk, a return walk of about 2 kilometers that takes approximately 1 hour to complete, following the floor of the canyon along Kings Creek."

At the parking lot and Kings Canyon Resort, rangers and medical teams are always on standby to assist in case of falls or other medical issues a hiker might encounter.

Light Towers Experience

Another beautiful experience awaits us this time at sunset: Light Towers. A wooden path leads to the Luritja Lookout, a platform facing Kings Canyon, 8 kilometers away. Here, we enjoy the last rays of the sun that superbly bathe the valley stretching towards the canyon, where artist Bruce Munro has created his work. "Light Towers" is an enchanting sound and light installation, a fascinating immersive experience that opened in April 2023, featuring 69 two-meter towers arranged in a circular pattern, each constructed from 216 glass bottles. The towers are illuminated by fiber optics and solar-powered LEDs, creating a mesmerizing display that shifts in color and intensity in sync with a custom soundscape composed by Orlando Gough.

The installation is set against the dramatic backdrop of Kings Canyon's rugged cliffs, enhancing the surreal quality of the experience.

After a scenic aperitif where the last rays of the sun play with shapes, landscapes, and the Towers that gradually light up in red, blue, and other colors, we set off to explore Munro's work at night. It seems to defy the darkness with music changing in intensity and mood, reflecting the shifting colors of the light towers and the natural surroundings, from the soft hues of dawn to the vibrant colors of dusk. An exceptional invitation to connect more deeply with the natural beauty and spiritual atmosphere of Kings Canyon.

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